31 May 2024 - 3.5 hours
The trailing edge was nice and straight after being epoxied and clamped to a straight piece of aluminum angle. It took about 45 minutes to clean up all the epoxy squeeze out. I used the #40 countersink in the deburring tool to clean the epoxy out of the dimples. I turned it by hand just enough to catch the epoxy and it chipped out mostly cleanly. This made sure the rivets would sit flush in the dimple.I riveted the trailing edge by starting with the back-rivet set and set them all about half way, following the instructions. Then I flipped over the rudder and used a flat set drive home the rivets, again, as the instructions said. There was some ever-so-slight wave to the trailing edge so I did some gentle strategic taps with the rivet gun to straighten it back out.
The shop heads came out nice.
As did the manufactured heads.
All the rivets set!
Next I moved onto rolling the leading edge which is still a huge pain. Eventually, though, I got it done and it looks pretty good!
After drilling and deburring the leading edge rivet holes, I set all the leading edge pop rivets.
And with that, the rudder is done!